The three eras of alpinism

I tell something about the three eras of alpinism: golden era, style era and sport mountaineering

Golden era of alpinism ended in Alps in 1865, when the last summit of Alps, Switzerland’s highest mountain, Matterhorn, was summited. Golden era of mountaineering ended in Himalayas in 1954, when the last 8000er K2 was summited.

Now we live in Style era of alpinism. In the Golden era the point was: who is the first country and who is the the first man on the summit –  in the Style era the point is follow “the unwritten rules of professional alpinists’ society”. We have about 12 classic mountaineering styles and we respect those cool styles of alpinism. In Himalayas and Alpine have different styles. Without oxygen is the norm of professional high altitude climbing in Himalaya. Solo climbing is difficult style in Alps, often impossible.

The third era of alpinism, Sport Mountaineering, is beginning. Running and climbing records, speed climbing and different combinations to move on mountains. The point of Sport Alpinism is time.


(I continue this article later.)