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I have two different mountaineering goals: high and steep. Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world, and the north faces of the Alps is the classic climbing challenge. The main challenge on the Everest is oxygen and endurance fitness, and the challenge of north faces of the Alps is rock and ice climbing skills. I started the mountaineering projects in 2019 and 2021. The probability to success is 30 % or less.<\/em><\/p>\n The North Faces of the Alps is the classic rock and ice climbing challenge. Grandes Jorasses in France, Eiger and Matterhorn in Switzerland. About 800 meter rock climbing and 400 meter ice climbing (together 35 pitches) at 4000 m altitude, and down climbing from the other side of the mountain back to mountain village. It takes 24 – 36 hours to climb one of them.<\/em><\/p>\n Timing the climbing is difficult: in summer ice is too soft and dangerous. In winter there is too cold to rock climb and too dark to find the vertical route. The September – October and April are the best months for climbing. Every year ice conditions are different. If the summer is rainy, the North Faces takes more ice, and it’s more ice climbing and easier. You can choose one of two climbing tactics: Fast and Light \/ Bivaqing over night. Fast and Light tactic means you climb the North Face up and South face down without hauling in one day. If you are slow, you get big problems. Climbing by hauling tactic is slower and heavier, it takes more energy and time. The starting time to the North Face route is important, because you don’t want rock falls or risky ice climbing on the big Alpine wall. Down climbing the steep snow slopes in afternoon includes avalanche risk.<\/em><\/p>\n I have the endurance sport background, so I have to exercise a lot of rock and ice climbing with my friends. Rock, ice, mix, trad and sport climbing,\u00a0dry tooling and bouldering\u00a0exercises prepare me for the climb. The second 50 % is mountaineering skills, rope strategy and summit tactic, and\u00a0scrambling down. If I can climb one of them with my\u00a0friends, I am happy.<\/i><\/p>\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Alppien pohjoissein\u00e4t High and steep challenge I have two different mountaineering goals: high and steep. Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world, and the north faces of the …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"parent":7367,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-4977","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"yoast_head":"\nThe Classic Rock and Ice Climbing Challenge<\/h2>\n
Climbing Exercises and Mountaineering Experience<\/h3>\n
Eiger North Face<\/h2>\n
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Grandes Jorasses North Face<\/h1>\n
Matterhorn North Face<\/h2>\n
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